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Katherine: Paris/Hjøerring:
So we´re in Hjøerring, and I KNOW what you´re thinking.
You´re thinking ´but Katherine, aren´t you there a day earlier than you expected?` And yes, as a matter of fact I am.
But there, I am getting ahead of myself. You want to know ALL ABOUT PARIS, don´t you? I´m afraid my order might be out, but I´ll give it a burl.
The day after Notre Dame, we MEANT to start early, but of course ended up starting later than we intended. After getting up and showering (both with roughly equal degrees of difficulty) we caught the train into the Louvre. And so OK, I know I said the Sforza palace was big, but the Louvre is REALLY REALLY BIG. We didn´t even scratch the surface, really. I mean, we saw all the Renaissance stuff, and it was so nice and family like seeing the Botticellis and Peruginos and Leonardos, including of course the Mona Lisa. And we saw a lot of the Spanish and German and Dutch and Flemish stuff, and the ancient Roman and Greek sculpture. But by the end we were SO tired that I just couldn´t stand walking around any longer. Saw some of the paintings from Isabella d´Este´s studiolo, so that was pretty exciting.
Tegan didn´t enjoy it at all, I don´t think, and to tell the truth, there was so much to see that I didn´t enjoy it as much as I expected either.
The afternoon improved matters, for me at any rate. We went to the Museum of the Middle Ages, and I realised what a disgusting mediaevalist I am, going into raptures over, well, everything in there actually. There was heaps of amazing stuff; swords, armour, sculptures, wooden altarpieces, clothes, but my VERY FAVOURITE THING EVER in there was the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which were just incredibly beautiful and you should definitely go see them if you ever go to Paris. Just amazing and complex and I bought a book and will tell you all about them when I get home, OK?
So yeah. That was nice. We tried to go to the Eiffel tower and we lined up and everything, but it was just too cold and we weren´t dressed for it, and we´ve both climbed it before, so we went back to the hostel instead.
The next day was our Death Day - so called because we started out in the graveyard, moved on to the Catacombs and finished up in the Pantheon.
The reason we visited the graveyard, whose name eludes me, is because several famous people are buried there. Here are the people whose graves or ashes we visited:
Abelard and Heloise (look it up, it´s a great story)
Sarah Bernhardt
Edith Piaf
Jim Morrison
Isadora Duncan AND AND AND AND
Oscar Wilde!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was most excited about the first and last. There were lipstick prints all over Oscar Wilde´s grave, so there must be a tradition.
We went for morning tea to the coolest Creperie ever. They were really expensive, but SO good, and the people there spoke French to us and there were no tourists or anything, so it was well worth the exorbitant prices. Chocolate, pear and cream crepes, Oh My!
Next were the catacombs. The people in line behind us kept getting really close, so I bumped them quite rudely, but they passed us once we got to the bottom of the stairs so that was OK.
In case you weren´t aware, apart from above ground Paris, there is a whole other Paris below ground. Not just the catacombs, which are a mass grave site, but also cinemas and clubs and stuff. But being us, we just went to the mass grave.
It was quite confronting. I´m not sure what I expected, but it wasn´t unprotected piles of human bones, often arranged so that the skulls made shapes, like mitres and hearts. It was... odd. And sad. There were lots of plaques with poetry on them in French, but I could only translate a few. We went through pretty quietly, and it was an eye opening experience. In a good way, I think.
Two things that made me really angry were being told that people steal the bones all the time, and seeing graffitti on some of the skulls. I think that´s incredibly disrespectful. Bad enough that these people, who chances are were Christians who believed that they would be buried until kingdom come, have been exhumed and buried en masse, then shown to the public, but then to desecrate the dead and use their bones as trophies is just beyond the pale.
Anyway.
We headed over to the Pantheon, very tired. It´s very grand, but the interior is quite trashy. Thoreau´s pendulum was pretty cool, and Tegan and I agreed that Jordan would have liked it, and I thought Dad would like it too. We also visited some more tombs, including those of Victor Hugo, Voltaire, and Marie and Pierre Curie.
Nick and Jake rang to go out, but for various reasons, it didn´t end up happening.
We visited a travel agent to book trains, but after waiting half an hour were told they couldn´t book them. So we went to Gare du Nord, but we were too late and couldn´t book there either.
In the morning we went back and were told that the train Tegan wanted to book on was full, but that we could leave that night. This threw out our Paris plans entirely, but we really had no other choice, so we booked it, went home and packed, left our luggage at Gare du Nord (Tegan very impressively fitted both packs into a medium sized locked) and headed over to Champs Elysees, where we frantically searched for a cinema showing HP in English. We didn´t find one, but we did see the Arc de Triomph.
I was very tired and very grumpy at having to leave a day early and because my bag was too heavy so my hips were hurting, and it wasn´t a very good day.
Our train left at 8.30pm and we were in a seats carriage with a mother and her two children aged around three and seven, who she LEFT FOR THE ENTIRE NIGHT. Just up and left them in a carriage with two complete strangers. It was really stupid.
I slept a little on the floor.
We got into Hamburg early, had breakfast at a disgusting train station restaurant, then caught another train into Denmark, and eventually, after another change or two, arrived in Hjøerring around 4pm, where we were met at the train station by Tegan´s ex-host-mother and -sister, Bodil and Inger. They drove us back to their house, where I met Tegan´s host-father, Leif. They were all very nice and very understanding of our extreme tiredness and grottiness. We had showers (I washed my hair! The novelty! The joy!) and when I finished, Inger´s grandfather and brother, Martin, had arrived, and Sara and her mother Karin arrived soon after. We had dinner, which was WONDERFUL. ACTUAL VEGETABLES, and also these Danish meatball things and for desert this strawberry thing that tasted a bit like really good strawberry jam with milk and cream. So incredibly good.
Kept my eyes propped open for another hour and a half, then went to bed and was alseep as soon as my head hit the pillow.
There isn´t much to say about today. Woke up around a quarter past ten, had a very yummy breakfast got dressed, and then went to Tegan´s favourite store in the whole wrold, H&M, where I bought a pair of pants, as the pair I bought JUST before I left for 89.95 at Myers have several holes in them all ready, which I was very displeased about.
Tegan bought some socks and a jumper.
And then we came to the library, and here we are, and maybe tonight we will go and see Harry Potter.
BTW, to all Tamora Pierce fans, I checked in the children´s section, and they have ALL her books translated into Danish. So very cool.
Extra special hello to the people at Biala, who I only just discovered, through my mother, are reading this journal, but don´t know how to comment.
For future reference,
HOW TO COMMENT/REPLY TO ENTRIES:
In the bottom right hand corner of every entry, there is a little link saying ´Post Comment´. Click the link and scroll down. You will come to a text box. Type in what you want to say, select the circle above the box saying Ánonymous´(if you´re not an LJ user) then click ´send comment´or ´post comment´(I can´t remember and this one is in Danish).
Hope that helps!
Love you all.
1 comment:
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[info]alisso
2005-12-21 10:22 am (local) (link) Track This
I don't know about turning catacombs into tourist attractions, but storing bones like that is traditional in cities low on space. You bury the bodies just long enough for the worms and bugs to pick the bones clean, then dig up the bones so you can re-use the space, and store the bones elsewhere. And, of course, due to pressures of space, you can't really store them as complete bodies, so they tend to get ranked by size. The process gets a mention in Terry Pratchett's Night Watch *g*
He comments that if certain religions are right, and there really is going to be a bodily resurection one day, it's going to be very messy and confusing *G*
Absolutely adore the idea of cinemas and clubs and things under Paris, that's so cool *g* And omg for Oscar's grave! *is jealous* I just hope people don't kiss Jim Morrison's gravestone too, cause I swear I've heard people tell stories about getting drunk and pissing on it...
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[info]teganandkat
2005-12-23 02:13 am (local) (link) Track This
I never liked the idea of burial anyway!
Heart Terry Pratchett, also sub culture (literally!) in Paris.
I wouldn´t be surprised! There was so much graffiti around his grave.
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(Anonymous)
2005-12-21 12:59 pm (local) (link) Track This
Glad to hear you are well. Your Paris entry is intersting but lacks the passion of your other entries. Obviously the touring is getting a bit tiring. Poor old Oscar, still didn't he say that 'the only thing worse than being famous is not being famous'.Nice to see your enthusiasm for vegetables....there is yet hope for your diet. Speaking of which we back here are now all happy members of the gym. We went for our first session yesterday. My arms are a bit sore from the weights and I had some tummy cramps after the some of the crunches. Anna and Laura did their stuff and then went and had swim, I just went to bed. Still the bloke who did my assessment did say I had a bit of work to do before I got up to 'poor'. As you can imagine we fitted right in with the gym crowd with our chiselled bodies and fashion sense. In fact it took us three goes to work the bloody lockers right. We are off to buy some Carlsberg beer as your mother and I are only drinking stuff that comes from the country you are currently staying in. The french wine from Dan Murphy's was quite good on the weekend with the paella. I read Tegan's entry and am a bit suspicious of any food that requires special characters to write, you never know what special enzymes it might take to digest.The floor is now done and we are back in our new look family room.....it's boofull. I heard from Mari Jose and they hope you can come and visit. Juan Antonio has just become a dad. A little boy called Jaime. Keep the entries coming and get some rest between travel bits. Love ya. I'm dreaming of a white Christmas !
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[info]teganandkat
2005-12-23 02:18 am (local) (link) Track This
*Grins* Well, Tegan really didn´t like it, so that impacted on how much I enjoyed myself. The Cluny museum was worth it all though!
Gym made me laugh, especially the ´poor´ thing. Something to keep my amused while I´m tramping around the Continent.
Danish food is FANTASTIC and not suspicious at all.
I shall try to translate that email you sent. Might take a while as I´m at the library and have neither dictionary nor printer.
Probably no white Christmas for us. But I love you too!
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[info]bonnie_may
2005-12-21 11:47 pm (local) (link) Track This
OH MY GOD!!!! sound so amazing!
i wish we did all those tourity things when we were in paris. We saw the Lourve, Eifel Tower, Notre Dame... and were staying just off the Champs Elyse, so saw the Arc de Triomph etc every day, it's really, quite lovely.
We found paris SOOOO expencive when we were there, that we rarely ate out in resteraunts... kinda sucked, but we did lots of walking! We found a starbucks (not exactly close to where we were staying, but near the cheap internet cafe) that we lived in - kinda.....
where abouts was the hostel you were staying in? why didnt you catch up with nick and jake?
hope you're having fun in Denmark!
much love
PS. i have a hole in my nose!!! i got it today, wil post photo tomorrw - not that it's overly exciting! but yay!
My dad is PISSED!!!! i was expecting that from my mum!!!
night night
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[info]teganandkat
2005-12-23 02:15 am (local) (link) Track This
It was pretty cool.
Paris is EXTREMELY expensive. Certainly worse than Florence, which is expensive by itself.
Our hostel was near metro station Voltaire. We didn´t catch up with them mainly because we´d been standing in queues for train tickets for two hours and were really tired, grumpy, hungry and cold. We didn´t get dinner till nine, and figured there would be no point.
Looking forward to photo!
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