Luxor

My God, I assumed it wasn't possible to be history-ed out, but I really am getting there!
The pyramids at Giza were amazing - I don't know what to say except that they're really big and really old. Monololithic, and organic, so that they seem to have risen out of the earth.
Aswan is a beautiful city - I loved the temple at Philae, and the Nubian Museum. I am learning the value of practical considerations such as air conditioning where museums are concerned!
We are currently in Luxor. Yesterday we visited the temple at Karnak, but cut it short, because Dana got nauseated with the heat. Today we spent six hours on donkey back, starting at seven in the morning, exploring the Valleys of the Kings, and Queens, Hetshepsut's temple and the Colossi of Memnon. It sounds like a bad bumper sticker, but everything really is bigger in Egypt. I feel dwarfed by the monuments and the city and the heat and the everything. Here's a tip: midday in the height of Summer in Egypt? Not the best time to go tomb diving. It's really freaking hot.
I climbed down some mountains today, and boy am I sore! Don't laugh. My calves are rock hard now; it is most impressive. I am also romantically bronzed and less romantically filthy.
I forgot to tell you in my last post - disaster struck in Rabat. My bag, a Crumpler shoulder bag of which I am inordinately fond, is essentially water tight. The way I found this out was that one of my water bottles leaked, and instead of leaking through the cloth, the water formed a pool, dreanching my passports, money, camera and iRiver as well as a few more impervious items. The money dried, but the camera and iRiver are sadly as dead as it is possible for them to get. My passports are a bit crinkly, and my Egytpians visa was so smudged I had a teensy bit of trouble getting through customs, but I am largely undaunted. Dana and Jenny are taking plenty of pictures and all is well.
Accommodation has all been good so far, although I'm looking forward to a decent shower, some shampoo and reliable temperature control.
Swindlers everywhere, but we are developing a range of amusing and energetic ways to deal with them that are proving highly effective.
Hurghada tomorrow for a beach-and-rest day of which we are in VERY sore need.
Lots of love.